create comp climbs anywhere

Principals of making up climbs. 

  1. Start by looking for a feature, volumes, or hold that inspires a movement. I almost always find something and create a move from that rather than looking for a way to create a specific move. 

    1. For example, I would look for a volume medium to low to the ground that has a large open surface to create a skate. Or look for a jug next to a slopey feature to create a paddle.  

  2. Bad holds are not the only way to make hard climbs. Comp climbing is largely about uncomfortable positions, achieving, keeping, and generating from these positions is a good use of time on the spray wall. 

    1. Ways to create uncomfortable positions: choose high feet, track feet along hands, and remove/ limit compression positions.

    2. Work on generating from uncomfortable positions. Examples, low extended feet, only one foot, Gaston position, slopers, wide compression, etc 

  3. It is ok to start with something that you know goes. It is much easier to make something a bit hard if you first create a move that is too easy. 

    1. When creating moves by yourself it can be very hard to stay motivated if everything you make is really hard from the beginning and you don’t really know if the moves go. Try to create something that is doable at first and then work from there to make adjustments to make it harder.