Bouldering Season  

ISO WARM-UP

PHASE 1

Time: 20 min (practice) - 35 min (competition) 

[1/2 of time is cardio and stretching / 1/2 of time is easy climbing]

Goals: heart rate up, body warm, light pump and recover

Cardio:

Jump rope: 100 reps

Burpees 7 reps/3 sets

High Knees 50

Jump Squats10 reps/ 3 sets

Stretches: 5 minutes

• Focus 1: hips, shoulders, legs (open and close the gates, figure skaters, scapular push-ups, band pull a-parts, overhead band rolls, arm circles)

• Focus 2: stretch problem areas if needed (past or current lingering injuries) 

Climbing - easy volume, big holds/jugs: 10 minutes

• 10-15 move climbs - simple movement -  focus on footwork and breathing (precise, quiet, and sticky feet) 

• Easy movements synchronized with breath

• Can be complex Moves,  but low intensity. Work on effectively transferring weight and moving hips to make moves easiest. 

• Practice on different foothold types 

◦  Smear Feet, Incut Feet, Volumes, and Wall Smear 

• Practice different foot positions 

◦  Feet below hips, High toes & heels, Careful heel placement, Lateral feet (feet far out to the side), Adjusting toes, heels, etc. throughout moves, swap feet, step across, smear

PHASE 2

Time: 15 min (practice) - 25 min (competition) 

Goals: warm-up muscles needed for all hold types/basic movements

Climbing - hold variety: 

• 5-7 move-made-up climbs on each hold type (slopers, pinches, crimps, incut/flat edges, pockets, volumes, aretes, small foot chips)

• Grab each hold carefully and intentionally

•  Pay attention to where your thumb is and what it’s doing

Climbing - movement variety: 

• Warm up all Styles of Movements at moderate intensity (gastons, mantles, side pulls, dynamic moves, underlings, rose move, heel and toe hooks, Balance, Stemming, Pressing/mantling)

PHASE 3

Time: 15 min (practice) - 25 min (competition) 

Goals: Focus on warming up commitment and try-hard by focusing on crux moves, and athlete-specific movements (favorite moves, antistyle moves)

 Try Hard Moves - 3-5 move crux sequences: 

  • Work at limit, plenty of rest DO NOT tire yourself out before onsight round

  • Low complexity High Intensity

  • Bad Holds, Body Tension, Committing Moves

  • Focus on the mental game, capable of dialing in and out of 100% effort

 Try Hard Moves - 3-5 move crux sequences: 

  • Complex/ tricky Movement 

  • Warm Up their brain and Mental Commitment

  • Often Forgotten Moves: Check in with athletes and make sure they have warmed up both pushing and pulling movements